You know the leads I mean - those long, springy, extendable ones that seem like freedom. But to your dog, they feel like constant pressure.

Imagine someone always holding you back. You want to explore, but every turn, every step, there’s tension. It’s frustrating. Stressful.

Now imagine you're already anxious or fearful—and every time you react, there’s a sudden jolt or sound. In time every time you feel the jolt or sound of that lead your brain will go: “Uh-oh, something’s wrong.” Even when it’s not. 

Your dog starts predicting danger based on those sounds or sensations, and that builds reactivity.

Even reaching into your pocket for your phone might make your dog tense up, thinking, “Oh no! A dog’s coming!” simply because of the associations.

That’s what it’s like for many fearful or reactive dogs on these leads. They begin to associate tension, sound, and even your hand reaching into your pocket with danger.

That’s why I recommend the lead on my website. It has three length options, allows loose lead walking, and gives your dog freedom, without overstimulation.

It’s not just a lead; it’s a better way to connect.

Often used to stop pulling or control excitement, they tighten around the neck or even the mouth. For your dog, that means pain, pressure, and fear. Figure of 8 slip leads can cause pain, injury and even death. 

Dear owner: imagine you’re scared. Really scared. Would you be able to think clearly whilst this is tightening around your face? Or would your brain just panic?

That’s exactly how it feels for your dog. Pain doesn’t teach, it shuts learning down. And for a fearful or reactive dog, it only makes things worse.

As a dog behaviourist and pet communicator, I urge you: there are gentler, more effective tools. Your dog deserves to feel safe, so they can learn and retain information clearly.

Yes, chasing balls and sticks looks fun, and as owners we love to see our dogs having fun! 

But have you noticed how frantic your dog gets? That wired, obsessive energy? It’s not just excitement, it’s addiction, obession and it could be causing ever lasing damage to your dogs joints.

Ball launchers and fast stick throws force your dog into high-speed sprints and sharp sudden turns turns. Over time, this can lead to joint problems, arthritis, and obsessive behaviour. It doesn’t burn energy and make your dog tired, it actually does the opposite: winding them up. Over time this leads to creating adrenline junkies who take even more exercie to tire out.

Also, imagine running full speed, twisting suddenly, again and again. Eventually, your body would struggle too.

As a dog behaviourist and pet communicator, I want your dog to play safely. Try kicking the ball gently or tossing it by hand. It’s still fun—but kinder to their body and mind.

I get it—puppy accidents happen, and rugs come up to protect your floors. But without grip, your puppy is like an ice skater on laminate, constantly slipping—and that comes with serious consequences.

It’s not just joint strain or early arthritis. Slipping can cause fear or negative associations with specific rooms and damage their confidence. Your puppy might start avoiding parts of your home because of one bad experience. And in those early weeks of puppy training, that kind of emotional imprint can last a lifetime.

And let’s be honest—if you had to live your life on a skating rink, wouldn’t you be grumpy too?

So why do we ask that of our dogs?

Confidence-building starts with stability. As a dog trainer I always recommend laying down cheap rugs or mats—not fancy, just functional you can dispose of after toilet training. You’ll protect your dog’s growing body, their emotional well-being, and your home.

This debate pops up a lot—and it gets even more confusing when people use both at once. But here’s the truth: a well-fitted harness is always the better choice for your dog’s comfort, confidence, and safety.

Collars put pressure on the trachea, making breathing harder and risking long-term damage. A good harness spreads that pressure safely across the strongest part of the dog. Opt for a well-fitted 'Y" shape harness that allows for natural movement, because an ill-fitting harness can cause damage too - I'll link my favourites below!

Now owners: imagine wearing a bra. One digs in, makes you miserable. The other fits like a dream. That’s the difference between a bad harness and a good one.

Here's the golden rule: tools aren't the solution to pulling. Pulling isn’t caused by the harness. It’s a training issue. Your dog isn’t trying to drag you—they just haven’t learned what you’re asking yet. Tools don’t replace teaching.

Confidence doesn’t come from control—it comes from connection.

Let’s clear this up: those fully closed, tight muzzles (often mesh or plastic) are medical muzzles, designed for short-term use during surgery—not for walks or grooming.

Dogs pant to cool down, calm down, and show stress. They also need to be able to drink. A closed muzzle blocks all of that. It’s not just uncomfortable—it’s dangerous. 

Again, ask yourself: If you were scared or anxious, and someone put a tight, restrictive muzzle on your face—one that didn’t even allow you to breathe properly—could you learn? Or would it just make you more stressed and more fearful of the thing you were already scared of?

If your dog growls or snaps at the groomer, it’s not “bad” behaviour—it’s fear. A bite attempt says, “I don’t feel safe.” And a tight muzzle just shuts them down further, creating trauma and teaching them their voice doesn’t matter.

Please, save the medical muzzle for the vet. Build trust with training, not tools that suppress emotion. Confidence grows from feeling safe—not silenced.

Instead, use a well-fitted muzzle that allows the dog to open it's mouth fully, allowing pant room and for the dog to drink.